Saturday, September 6, 2008

East Meets West

Xi An- this city is at the heart of classical Chinese civilization- continuously inhabited for over 3000 years, home to 13 major dynasties and the terminus of the Eastern end of the Silk Road. For thousands of years Xi'an was thought to be the center of the Chinese universe with the Emperor at its center.From this place the orders were given to create the Great Wall, to coin a common Chinese currency, to standardize Chinese characters, and to create a road network that laid the foundations for the China we see today.

So of course ancient sites abound. Scattered amongst modern high rises and neon lighted shopping malls are Dynastic palaces, sacred Pagodas, and ancient city walls. Just outside the city is the Terra Cotta Warriors, the resting place of China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, the man from whom China gets its name (in alphabetic Chinese "Q" is said like a ch).

With all this history, you might think that modern Xi'an is stuck in the past. Yet what I have found is a thriving urban setting that accepts international influences with open arms. In the two weeks that I have been here I have meet Germans, French, Ghanaians, Mongolians, Kazaks, Indians, Etrians, Jamacians, Mexicans, Slovaks, Swiss, Russians, and of course Americans from all over the country. The international aspects of Xi'an don't stop at its international friends; foods, fashions, and nightlife provide the most obvious examples of Xi'an cultural blend.

When Carly, Josh, and I settled into our apartment we threw a house warming party and invited our new friends. We went down to a international market not far from our University called "Metro.
" There I bought German pickles, Irish cheese, Ukrainian vodka, American Soda, and Chinese Peach juice and snacks. Never did I think when I came to China that I would be eating cheese that they sold at the Co-op.

Xi'an is like many other cities in that it has a energetic nightlife. With a range of options spanning from alleyway resturants to posh discos The posh nightclubs here are both intriguing and hilarious because the choice of themes reflects Chinese interpretations of foreign cultures.One style of disco in Xi'an draws much of their inspiration from American Hip-Hop videos. Flashing wall lights, tons of mirrors, lasers, and fog machines characterize these places. I promise photos are coming because words alone struggle to convey what is truly happening in China. I also went to a place called Club Havana where the house band was a Colombian salsa group.

Then you have the hostel pubs. One of the better one's in Xi'an claims to be the only Terra Cotta Warrior themed bar in the world. 
  
Here you can sit back and relax and soak up the best in what the hip Chinese subculture has to offer. The last time I went there I heard the stylings of the most well known beat boxer in Shaanxi province. After about half of his set a bare-chested Scotsman in a kilt with a feather in his cap starts rhyming to the Chinese guys beats. As a geographer, seeing this I just could help but think of the Silk Road. People coming from around the world trading their goods, blending their cultures, and sharing their stories.

Thus in many ways despite Xi'an's many changes on its way to modernity over the past few decades, it hasn't fundamentally changed. It is still a place where people are open to the new and exciting from across the globe. A place where people can come together to better understand each other. And a place where the exchange of ideas and goods has brought vitality and prosperity.